Elite Pressure Blogging

Posts Tagged ‘deck sealing’

Does my new deck need to be pressure washed before it is treated?

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

Most people believe that because the wood is new, there is no prep work needed before staining or painting. Fact is unless the new wood is properly prepared, any finish you put on the deck will not give you maximum performance.

New wood as it comes from the lumber mill has been sawn and planed with high speed equipment. As the wood is finished the heat and pressure from the blades compressed the wood fiber on the surface which gives the wood a shiny appearance. This is “mill glaze”. Stains and paints will not properly penetrate the surface of the wood as long as there is mill glaze (Bill Swanston, Benjamin Moore).

Prior to applying any coating to the wood the mill glaze must be removed. For this you have three options. Leave the wood out for two to three months so the rain and sun can get at it (still it will need to be cleaned before it is treated after all you would not wax a dirty car). Option two is to sand the lumber with the grain with 80 grit sand paper. The sand paper will cut into the surface removing the mill glaze and also any loose wood fibers and slivers. The third option is a chemical solution and a light pressure wash. Now that you have all the lumber prepped, no mill glaze is present, we now can look at staining or painting if preferred.

Put your wood deck in check

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

Fairfax County Times
Homes Section
March 26, 2009

By Steve Chapman
Special to the Times

As you step outside onto your deck one sunny, spring day for the first time this year, you may gasp at how gray it looks. Before you dump out your piggy bank to build a new deck, consider a less expensive alternative.

Most likely your deck looks much worse than it really is. A simple pressure washing and treatment can work magic. Within hours, your old, sad-looking deck will be all “decked out” for parties, graduations, weddings or barbecues this spring, summer and fall. Here are a few simple tips to keep your deck in check:

Q: What type of equipment should I use?
A: Use a pressure washer that is at least 2,500 pounds per square inch (psi) and uses three gallons per minute. The psi will ensure the machine is strong enough to clean and rinse your deck. Wood is soft. You don’t want to blast it too hard. This can damage your deck and siding and injure you if you’re not careful.

Q: What kind of cleaning agents are there?
A: Choose a non-bleach cleaning agent. It will loosen the dirt, mold and mildew from wood so the process is more rinse and less blast. Bleach will degrade the wood fibers in your deck.

Q: Where should I start cleaning my deck?
A: First, remove all furniture. Be sure you cover the siding and shrubbery with tarps or plastic. Trust me, you’ll be glad you took the time to protect these items and not have to clean up afterwards. I suggest if you have a cement patio or driveway, that you start there to practice using the pressure washer. Then start on your deck’s floor first. Wash in a pendulum motion, back and forth, going with the wood grain. After you finish the floor, start on the rails.

Q: Should I use a seal or stain?
A: A treatment can only be applied to your deck after it’s completely dry. I suggest waiting three to five days. Don’t start if it’s windy or rain is in the forecast for the next day. Sealants are clear; stains have color. A clear sealant will help protect your deck for a year, where as a stain will protect it longer. Before you begin, insect your deck for popped-up nails and cracked or warped wood fix them. I always sand handrails to help ensure there are no splinters.

Steve Chapman is the owner of Elite Pressure Cleaning in Manassas. He can be reached at shchapman77@aol.com