Elite Pressure Blogging

2 Ways bleach damages your deck

admin — Wed, 16 May 2012 11:25:04 +0000

1. Bleach is not a cleaner- The natural bleaching action creates the impression of a cleaner surface which, in reality, is only bleached but still needs cleaning. Cleaning your deck with bleach is comparable to washing your hands without soap…your hands are rinsed a little, but they still need cleaning.
2. Bleach damages the cellular structure of your deck. The corrosive effects of chlorine bleach on wood decks are cumulative and are more numerous than you might imagine. Not only does chlorine bleach break down wood fibers and alter the color of wood, it also corrodes metal fasteners - including the screws and nails holding your deck together. A University of Oregon Department of Wood Science study concluded that chlorine bleach doesn’t kill mold on wood anyway. Combine the knowledge of chlorine bleach’s ineffectiveness and corrosive characteristics with the fact that it is poisonous to plants (like the trees and flowers around your deck) and animals (like your pets and any wildlife that frequents your yard), and chlorine bleach quickly becomes a dangerous chemical to avoid when caring for your wood deck.

Wisdom from Benjamin Moore

admin — Wed, 14 Mar 2012 13:43:04 +0000

This morning I had an informative meeting with a Benjamin Moore store representative about their new lines of deck stains. In this meeting he told me about some of the advantages to using an acrylic based product over the nearly extinct oil based stain and thought you may also find it to be interesting:

-Oil breaks down faster than acrylic- for a customer acrylic will last longer.

-Acrylic stains have a lower VOC (volatile organic compounds) better for the environment

-The next thing he said, I was like duh, because we had been saying it for years, but the way he said it made even more sense. When a previous product of stain exists on a deck always strip down and start fresh. Why would you put something good on top of something that has failed? The good product is sure to fail quicker.

-An old adage is that if one coat is good two must be so much better, not true for semi transparent acrylics. The reason being one coat will penetrate and seal the wood, the second coat will have nowhere to go and never dry (yuck!)

-Acrylics dry faster

-The amount of tint in the stain is what adds to the UV protection- Clear, next to no UV protection, Solid has the most.

Hope this helps.

New pressure treated deck- How do I care for it?

admin — Thu, 02 Jun 2011 18:16:44 +0000

Every year, we receive hundreds of calls from customers who recently had a pressure treated pine (ptp)deck built. These customers want to make sure their investment is protected. The question we are certain to get is when should I get my new deck be treated. My answer ‘it depends’ here are the choices: Waiting nine months to a year before applying finish to a new pressure-treated-wood deck used to be standard procedure. Leaving wood unprotected lowers the interior moisture content and allows the pores to open and accept more sealer or stain. Unfortunately, it also contributes to weathering (warping and cracking)
In this posting I will share some facts and recommendations to treat your deck and avoid BIG problems:
1. New decks need pressure washing too before a treatment is applied. New lumber has a waxy buildup. This ‘mill glaze’ won’t allow the finish to penetrate and any finish applied to the deck will peel off in a few months. You’ll know mill glaze is present if water from a hose beads on the surface. Mill glaze can also appear as a burnished area. A light pressure washing is the only way to make certain all the mill glaze is removed.
2. First time washes can experience the fuzzies. Even with low pressure. The sun UV rays kill the outer layer of wood and this is what turns a deck gray. When washing is done this outer layer of dead wood is what is removed. Sometimes pressure washing new wood results in the furring of the wood called fuzzies. It’s like the wood has grown a lot of short hairs. It is caused by tearing of the wood fibers.
Some homeowners object to this appearance. They can be removed by light sanding, a kitchen scrubber, pool brush, steel brush, bronze wool or steel wool. Note: Bronze wool will not leave rust spots as steel wool does from steel particles left over in the wood. More frequently we will use the carbide brush technology sander to resolve these issues.
3. New (wet wood) is very dense so a more viscous stain (thicker) Behr, CWF, Olympic, ABR will not penetrate the wood resulting in a sloppy mess on top of the wood. The only way to ensure an even, clean, beautiful finish is by using a thinner (low viscosity) type of stain (Cabot, Ready seal, Penofin, Messmers). Incidentally we would recommend the same low viscous stains on dense exotic woods like ipe and mahogany.
4. New pressure treated pine (PTP) is yellow. This yellow color will show through any applied semi transparent stain making it appear more orange.

I have replacement wood next to old wood and stained them

admin — Thu, 02 Jun 2011 16:33:54 +0000

In an earlier posting I commented on why a semi transparent stain may look uneven after a new stain has been applied. Here is the answer to the only other reason other than shotty work why this may occur:

Another common variance in color is when you have new boards contrasted with old boards. Two facts to consider when semi transparent stain is applied to new or newer wood.

1. New (wet wood) is very dense so a more viscous stain (thicker) Behr, CWF, Olympic, ABR stain will not penetrate the wood resulting in a sloppy mess on top of the wood.

2. New pressure treated pine (PTP) is yellow. This yellow color will show through any applied semi transparent stain making in appear more orange.

Even after a couple years of aging the new piece of PTP will have a different color than old ptp but the contrast will not be as noticeable. Sanding may be helpful in bringing the old and new closer together. But all the stripping in the world will not make new wood less dense to match old wood.

My recommendation to customer with this problem is to either be prepared to live with the color variance or get a solid stain.

What is causing my semi transparent deck stain to look uneven?

admin — Thu, 02 Jun 2011 16:16:28 +0000

Customer says my deck was stained and it appears lighter in some areas and darker than others: Why is that?

Responce: I did see lighter areas contrasted with darker areas of the stain on your deck. Most noticeably where the deck receives the most wear (middle of the steps and walking paths) those areas appeared lighter. Areas where a mat or grill or tables are placed that receive less sun and less wear will appear darker. The stain you selected is a semi transparent stain which means it is designed to show the grain of the wood and give the deck a more natural appearance. The nature of the semi transparent stain is that it shows the grain but also will show any previous staining that is not removed by pressure washing work.

Standard pressure washing is designed to remove only mold, mildew and grey degradation in the wood. While we do use a deck brightener, it is not strong enough to remove previous stain. The only way to ensure the deck stain is completely even after a new treatment is to have removed all of the previous treatments. This is done by a chemical stripping process. The process includes a deck stripping, deck washing, deck neutralizing and sanding.

Some of the reasons Behr Deck Stain is a Bear!

admin — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 00:44:23 +0000

I have briefly listed the issues I have faced with Behr stain. These issues are from experiences in performing over 3000 deck cleanings and stains per year and over 16 years experience.
-Difficulty in application
-Uneven appearence of stain on new wood
-Black residue on deck surface within short period of time (in certain conditions)
-Extreme diffficulty in stripping old stain
-Confusing labeling of products
-Formula changes of product which create difficulty in matching color and protecting in future applications.

I realize Behr is highly rated on Consumer Reports. I am a big fan of CR, however much of CRs ratings are based on volume sold. Behr is sold at Home Depot. Without effort they should be the #1 sold brand of deck stain. This does not make Behr the best deck stain. I still prefer oil stains for semi transparent colors: Olympic, Cabot, Benjamin Moore, Ready Seal or even Super Deck. Happy Decking!

Who is “THE PRO” to the deck maintenance pros?

admin — Wed, 04 Aug 2010 18:50:09 +0000

Have you ever wondered who do the pros turn to answer their questions in order to solve your problems?
Of course they turn to the wisest, experienced, most articulate individual they know… me! 
Paint and Wall covering Contractor Magazine (http://www.pwc-magazine.com/) was looking to solve the problems contractors have in working with IPE (exotic hardwood) decks. (Pronounced like EBay but with a ‘P’). So for their July/August issue they went on a nationwide search for elite contractors to share their knowledge and experience with other dedicated professionals. For the Mid-Atlantic region they selected me, your resident Deck Restoration Guru, to share my thoughts, opinions and practices on treating and caring for this gorgeous species of wood.
For those of you who have never heard of IPE you’re not alone. IPE is a type of Brazilian hardwood that is considered the crème de la crème of deck wood. Its natural beauty is breath taking, its luster is magnificent. Our website’s home page (www.washmydeck.com) features an IPE deck. Not only is it beautiful but also the Forest Stewardship Council and the United States Green Building Council are promoting the use IPE because it is a sustainable and certified wood for use in green building projects.
People love IPE not only for its beauty but also for its durability, resistance to termites, mold and mildew. Ipe is also less likely to splinter because its tight grain.
As far as the interview, I was unsure which angle PWC was going for but was happy to oblige their query for an interview because of my passion for maintaining decks, especially IPE.
My interview with them was about 15 minutes. I told PWC contributing writer Brett Martin IPE decks are generally on higher end homes. My company, Elite Pressure Cleaning, has the privilege to perform regular maintenance on IPE decks that are situated on roof tops over looking DC skyline as well as ones that you can see the Potomac River, decks with stunning landscapes, great open meadows and infinity pools. Working on IPE evokes a similar privileged feeling (minus historical importance and patriotism) to when I would pressure wash the grave of President Kennedy at Arlington National Cemetery early in the morning as the sun would rise over the Washington Monument and Lincoln Memorial. In the pressure washer world, it just doesn’t get much better than working with IPE decks.
IPE requires yearly maintenance to maintain its stunning appearance. This is because no standard stain or finish will penetrate the dense wood. Most contractors neither have the know-how nor the proper equipment to maintain and treat such exotic, fine materials. Power washing alone will not get the luster most IPE deck owners are looking for when their deck project is complete. The use of a high quality sanding machine such as our carbide brush sanding machine helps to remove the weathered IPE wood so that the wood can absorb the proper amount of finish.
After any deck is stained it looks great, adds to the value of the home, and is something that is admired by friends. IPE looks like mahogany hardwood floors for the outdoors. As I said before, IPE decks need to be retreated every year for them to look their best. They must be pressure washed, sanded, and treated with an emphasis on not allowing the stain to pool.

Answers to all of your composite deck questions

admin — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 17:55:21 +0000

Frequently Asked Questions:

What are the differences in composite decks?

Listed on this website are the pros and cons of different composite deck materials (virgin vinyl, PVC and coupling vinyl with wood). The writer of this article has a bias, never the less his information is helpful
http://www.gardenstructure.com/composite_decking

Our Trex Lawsuit mitigation experience

As a result of this lawsuit Trex hired Environmental Solutions Association to mitigate those who suffered loss as a result of the Trex product. Environmental Solutions Association (ESA) is the nation’s premier, membership-based training organization. ESA is a major provider of educational courses, both classroom and distance learning, for the Inside Air Quality issues of Radon, Mold, VOC’s, Allergens and Bacteria.
Elite was hired by Environmental Solutions because of our vast experience and great emphasis in reducing mold and mildew and our precise application of the very sensitive product that restores the vibrancy and beauty of an older Trex deck.

How do you clean composite decks?

We use a mild detergent in our lower pressure system this will remove mold and mildew without cutting or marring the surface of a composite deck, like high pressure will. Because composite decks are made of different materials (PVC, Wood, Plastic) each surface will react differently to spills, mold mildew and staining. For this reason we cannot, guarantee the removal of every stain but rest assured that if it can be cleaned (safely) we will make every effort to do so.

Do you seal composite decks?

Before manufacturers created smaller spindle pieces for railings, we found the floor to be composite and the railings were wooden with a Trex handrail. In working with Trex and other research we found that sealing a composite deck was beneficial to composite decks because they were made with wood particles. In fact, not sealing them would cause the composite to degrade and become brittle. Sealing both the Trex and the wood is also less expensive because the floor will not need to be tarped off.

Some customers have expressed concern about this service because it sold as maintenance free but after referring them to the Trex lawsuit as well as telling them about our mitigation experience they decided to have their composite sealed.

Do you stain composite wood?

Many of the older composite materials had poor UV protection and have faded dramatically over time. For over 4 years we have stained composite decks that have succumbed to the sun. Staining these decks has breathed life back and restored their original luster. Additionally, each Trex material had a name specific to its color; the people working with Trex to mitigate the lawsuit have created colors that match precisely the original color of the Trex deck. With that being said, newer composite materials that have higher UV protection and are not prone to the same symptoms of fading and brittleness of earlier manufactured composite materials do not require sealing or staining.

Composite Deck Maintenance Plan

Many composite products are apt to attract mold and mildew growth. This growth on many of the composite colors becomes an eyesore. Many of our customers have asked us to set them up on a maintenance plan where we come out several times per year to clean their deck. This ensures that their deck is always looking its best and is a great savings versus a once a year visit.

What are the black marks that appear on my Trex Deck?

Technical Information
Mold
• Download Mold Technical Bulletin (pdf, 27K)
Mold is a lower form of plant life that can settle and grow on any surface, including Trex® decking. Mildew is a form of mold that grows on damp surfaces.

Mold spores are similar to seeds, but cannot be seen until colonies form. Air currents, insects, animals and water transport the spores easily. Due to mold’s adaptability and large number of species, it is very hard to control and impossible to totally eliminate. Mold will not affect the structural performance of Trex decking.
In order to form visible colonies, mold needs food, moisture, and temperatures between 40 and 90° F. Trex decking is not a food source for mold, but can collect food in the form of dirt and debris such as the overflow from flowerpots and gutters. Trex decking can also supply moisture if the gaps between deck boards are too small or clogged

Should I use bleach to clean my composite deck?

Chlorine Bleach or Sodium Hypochlorite (active ingredient in Chlorine Bleach) based deck cleaners that the uneducated recommend may appear to quickly remove mildew (white in color) and mold (black and other colors) fungus from Trex and other Composite Decking. Nothing could be farther from the truth.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA) DO NOT RECOMMEND Chlorine Bleach for Mold (Mildew is a species of Mold) remediation on porous surfaces such as Trex and other composite decking.

The reason for this is that Chlorine Bleach does not remove or kill the roots (mycelium) of the fungus, but actually waters them. A few weeks after you have cleaned a deck with chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite based products you will notice the mildew or other mold fungus growing back in greater numbers, especially after additional moisture comes into contact with the deck. It will make the problem worse and harder to remove the next time the composite surface becomes unsightly.

In addition, Chlorine Bleach products reeks havoc on the rest of the deck structure shortening the life of the entire structure. It is highly corrosive to any metal including structural connectors or fasteners (screws) holding the deck together. It shortens the life of the pressure treated lumber supporting the deck. This could lead to liability issues for the owner of the property and any company who recommends its use.

The Trex Lawsuit

NEW JERSEY, June 2 /PRNewswire/ — On May 28, 2004, the Superior Court of New Jersey certified a nationwide class action in a case originally filed in 2000 against Trex Company, Inc. (NYSE: TWP - News) and ExxonMobil Corp. (NYSE: XOM -News; collectively, the “Company”). The case alleges that the TREX product is defective.

The Court certified a nationwide class of consumers spanning the twelve- year period from 1992 through 2004 on a claim that the warranty issued by Trex and ExxonMobil in conjunction with the sale and distribution of composite lumber products is unconscionable and must be reformed. In addition, a class of New Jersey consumers will be certified for the same twelve-year period on claims that the sale, marketing and distribution of allegedly defective Trex lumber products (and its predecessor product Timbrex) violated the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act and breached express and implied warranties. Damages under the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act are trebled as a matter of law. In connection with the nationwide reformation of warranty claim, the Court observed that “[t]his issue has already been argued before the Appellate Division in this case and their decision is controlling.”

The complaint alleges that the Trex and Timbrex products rot splinter and degrade as a result of inherent defects in the manufacturing process. The defects are allegedly inconsistent with claims in the marketing materials distributed by the Company. In addition, although the Company claims that the product does not need sealants, after the product exhibits mold, the Company allegedly recommends that consumers apply sealants. Plaintiffs also seek to reform the Company’s warranty to, inter alia, include costs of repair and replacement of allegedly defective product, cover costs of sealants and eliminate the exclusive remedy of providing replacement product.

How to- Care For Your Deck With The Snow.

admin — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:21:57 +0000

Keeping the deck clear of snow will help to prevent costly repairs in the future.
Does your deck currently have snow mounds of snow covering it? Over the last few weeks I have received a number of emails from customers asking me how to care for their deck with the snow.
The greatest advantage of applying a seal or stain is that it is a barrier between your deck and the rain/ snow. To unprotected decks, as the snow melts it gets inside the cracks of the deck, then at night when the water freezes the water will expand. This pressure will cause wood to crack.
If you have not sealed or stained your deck in the past year for a seal or 3 years for a stain you may be in for a big surprise when the snow is gone and the wood is exposed again.
Regardless of whether your deck has been treated or not I would recommend shoveling off the snow from all horizontal surfaces where snow or water can sit. A warmer day such as today turns the snow from ice into slush and makes it easy to shovel again.
Protection differences between a seal and stain:
A stain is a penetrating finish that will protect the deck from the inside out which is why it offers the greatest protection.
A seal is a film that sits on top of the wood. As it rains, snows, or is used, the film will wear away. My greatest concern with decks that have been sealed is that with this type of weather the film will wear away quicker than normal leaving the deck less protected.
I hope this information helps and you enjoy the remaining weeks of winter. See you in the spring.

Does my new deck need to be pressure washed before it is treated?

admin — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 13:48:39 +0000

Most people believe that because the wood is new, there is no prep work needed before staining or painting. Fact is unless the new wood is properly prepared, any finish you put on the deck will not give you maximum performance.

New wood as it comes from the lumber mill has been sawn and planed with high speed equipment. As the wood is finished the heat and pressure from the blades compressed the wood fiber on the surface which gives the wood a shiny appearance. This is “mill glaze”. Stains and paints will not properly penetrate the surface of the wood as long as there is mill glaze (Bill Swanston, Benjamin Moore).

Prior to applying any coating to the wood the mill glaze must be removed. For this you have three options. Leave the wood out for two to three months so the rain and sun can get at it (still it will need to be cleaned before it is treated after all you would not wax a dirty car). Option two is to sand the lumber with the grain with 80 grit sand paper. The sand paper will cut into the surface removing the mill glaze and also any loose wood fibers and slivers. The third option is a chemical solution and a light pressure wash. Now that you have all the lumber prepped, no mill glaze is present, we now can look at staining or painting if preferred.