I realize Behr is highly rated on Consumer Reports. I am a big fan of CR, however much of CRs ratings are based on volume sold. Behr is sold at Home Depot. Without effort they should be the #1 sold brand of deck stain. This does not make Behr the best deck stain. I still prefer oil stains for semi transparent colors: Olympic, Cabot, Benjamin Moore, Ready Seal or even Super Deck. Happy Decking!

What are the differences in composite decks?

Listed on this website are the pros and cons of different composite deck materials (virgin vinyl, PVC and coupling vinyl with wood). The writer of this article has a bias, never the less his information is helpful
http://www.gardenstructure.com/composite_decking

Our Trex Lawsuit mitigation experience

As a result of this lawsuit Trex hired Environmental Solutions Association to mitigate those who suffered loss as a result of the Trex product. Environmental Solutions Association (ESA) is the nation’s premier, membership-based training organization. ESA is a major provider of educational courses, both classroom and distance learning, for the Inside Air Quality issues of Radon, Mold, VOC’s, Allergens and Bacteria.
Elite was hired by Environmental Solutions because of our vast experience and great emphasis in reducing mold and mildew and our precise application of the very sensitive product that restores the vibrancy and beauty of an older Trex deck.

How do you clean composite decks?

We use a mild detergent in our lower pressure system this will remove mold and mildew without cutting or marring the surface of a composite deck, like high pressure will. Because composite decks are made of different materials (PVC, Wood, Plastic) each surface will react differently to spills, mold mildew and staining. For this reason we cannot, guarantee the removal of every stain but rest assured that if it can be cleaned (safely) we will make every effort to do so.

Do you seal composite decks?

Before manufacturers created smaller spindle pieces for railings, we found the floor to be composite and the railings were wooden with a Trex handrail. In working with Trex and other research we found that sealing a composite deck was beneficial to composite decks because they were made with wood particles. In fact, not sealing them would cause the composite to degrade and become brittle. Sealing both the Trex and the wood is also less expensive because the floor will not need to be tarped off.

Some customers have expressed concern about this service because it sold as maintenance free but after referring them to the Trex lawsuit as well as telling them about our mitigation experience they decided to have their composite sealed.

Do you stain composite wood?

Many of the older composite materials had poor UV protection and have faded dramatically over time. For over 4 years we have stained composite decks that have succumbed to the sun. Staining these decks has breathed life back and restored their original luster. Additionally, each Trex material had a name specific to its color; the people working with Trex to mitigate the lawsuit have created colors that match precisely the original color of the Trex deck. With that being said, newer composite materials that have higher UV protection and are not prone to the same symptoms of fading and brittleness of earlier manufactured composite materials do not require sealing or staining.

Composite Deck Maintenance Plan

Many composite products are apt to attract mold and mildew growth. This growth on many of the composite colors becomes an eyesore. Many of our customers have asked us to set them up on a maintenance plan where we come out several times per year to clean their deck. This ensures that their deck is always looking its best and is a great savings versus a once a year visit.

What are the black marks that appear on my Trex Deck?

Technical Information
Mold
• Download Mold Technical Bulletin (pdf, 27K)
Mold is a lower form of plant life that can settle and grow on any surface, including Trex® decking. Mildew is a form of mold that grows on damp surfaces.

Mold spores are similar to seeds, but cannot be seen until colonies form. Air currents, insects, animals and water transport the spores easily. Due to mold’s adaptability and large number of species, it is very hard to control and impossible to totally eliminate. Mold will not affect the structural performance of Trex decking.
In order to form visible colonies, mold needs food, moisture, and temperatures between 40 and 90° F. Trex decking is not a food source for mold, but can collect food in the form of dirt and debris such as the overflow from flowerpots and gutters. Trex decking can also supply moisture if the gaps between deck boards are too small or clogged

Should I use bleach to clean my composite deck?

Chlorine Bleach or Sodium Hypochlorite (active ingredient in Chlorine Bleach) based deck cleaners that the uneducated recommend may appear to quickly remove mildew (white in color) and mold (black and other colors) fungus from Trex and other Composite Decking. Nothing could be farther from the truth.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA) DO NOT RECOMMEND Chlorine Bleach for Mold (Mildew is a species of Mold) remediation on porous surfaces such as Trex and other composite decking.

The reason for this is that Chlorine Bleach does not remove or kill the roots (mycelium) of the fungus, but actually waters them. A few weeks after you have cleaned a deck with chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite based products you will notice the mildew or other mold fungus growing back in greater numbers, especially after additional moisture comes into contact with the deck. It will make the problem worse and harder to remove the next time the composite surface becomes unsightly.

In addition, Chlorine Bleach products reeks havoc on the rest of the deck structure shortening the life of the entire structure. It is highly corrosive to any metal including structural connectors or fasteners (screws) holding the deck together. It shortens the life of the pressure treated lumber supporting the deck. This could lead to liability issues for the owner of the property and any company who recommends its use.

The Trex Lawsuit

NEW JERSEY, June 2 /PRNewswire/ — On May 28, 2004, the Superior Court of New Jersey certified a nationwide class action in a case originally filed in 2000 against Trex Company, Inc. (NYSE: TWP - News) and ExxonMobil Corp. (NYSE: XOM -News; collectively, the “Company”). The case alleges that the TREX product is defective.

The Court certified a nationwide class of consumers spanning the twelve- year period from 1992 through 2004 on a claim that the warranty issued by Trex and ExxonMobil in conjunction with the sale and distribution of composite lumber products is unconscionable and must be reformed. In addition, a class of New Jersey consumers will be certified for the same twelve-year period on claims that the sale, marketing and distribution of allegedly defective Trex lumber products (and its predecessor product Timbrex) violated the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act and breached express and implied warranties. Damages under the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act are trebled as a matter of law. In connection with the nationwide reformation of warranty claim, the Court observed that “[t]his issue has already been argued before the Appellate Division in this case and their decision is controlling.”

The complaint alleges that the Trex and Timbrex products rot splinter and degrade as a result of inherent defects in the manufacturing process. The defects are allegedly inconsistent with claims in the marketing materials distributed by the Company. In addition, although the Company claims that the product does not need sealants, after the product exhibits mold, the Company allegedly recommends that consumers apply sealants. Plaintiffs also seek to reform the Company’s warranty to, inter alia, include costs of repair and replacement of allegedly defective product, cover costs of sealants and eliminate the exclusive remedy of providing replacement product.

New wood as it comes from the lumber mill has been sawn and planed with high speed equipment. As the wood is finished the heat and pressure from the blades compressed the wood fiber on the surface which gives the wood a shiny appearance. This is “mill glaze”. Stains and paints will not properly penetrate the surface of the wood as long as there is mill glaze (Bill Swanston, Benjamin Moore).

Prior to applying any coating to the wood the mill glaze must be removed. For this you have three options. Leave the wood out for two to three months so the rain and sun can get at it (still it will need to be cleaned before it is treated after all you would not wax a dirty car). Option two is to sand the lumber with the grain with 80 grit sand paper. The sand paper will cut into the surface removing the mill glaze and also any loose wood fibers and slivers. The third option is a chemical solution and a light pressure wash. Now that you have all the lumber prepped, no mill glaze is present, we now can look at staining or painting if preferred.

By Steve Chapman
Special to the Times

As you step outside onto your deck one sunny, spring day for the first time this year, you may gasp at how gray it looks. Before you dump out your piggy bank to build a new deck, consider a less expensive alternative.

Most likely your deck looks much worse than it really is. A simple pressure washing and treatment can work magic. Within hours, your old, sad-looking deck will be all “decked out” for parties, graduations, weddings or barbecues this spring, summer and fall. Here are a few simple tips to keep your deck in check:

Q: What type of equipment should I use?
A: Use a pressure washer that is at least 2,500 pounds per square inch (psi) and uses three gallons per minute. The psi will ensure the machine is strong enough to clean and rinse your deck. Wood is soft. You don’t want to blast it too hard. This can damage your deck and siding and injure you if you’re not careful.

Q: What kind of cleaning agents are there?
A: Choose a non-bleach cleaning agent. It will loosen the dirt, mold and mildew from wood so the process is more rinse and less blast. Bleach will degrade the wood fibers in your deck.

Q: Where should I start cleaning my deck?
A: First, remove all furniture. Be sure you cover the siding and shrubbery with tarps or plastic. Trust me, you’ll be glad you took the time to protect these items and not have to clean up afterwards. I suggest if you have a cement patio or driveway, that you start there to practice using the pressure washer. Then start on your deck’s floor first. Wash in a pendulum motion, back and forth, going with the wood grain. After you finish the floor, start on the rails.

Q: Should I use a seal or stain?
A: A treatment can only be applied to your deck after it’s completely dry. I suggest waiting three to five days. Don’t start if it’s windy or rain is in the forecast for the next day. Sealants are clear; stains have color. A clear sealant will help protect your deck for a year, where as a stain will protect it longer. Before you begin, insect your deck for popped-up nails and cracked or warped wood fix them. I always sand handrails to help ensure there are no splinters.

Steve Chapman is the owner of Elite Pressure Cleaning in Manassas. He can be reached at shchapman77@aol.com

Definition: Flashing is shiny spots on a deck after it has been stained. This contrasted with dull areas will make for an uneven appearance.

What Causes Flashing?

2 causes. Either too much stain being applied or the stain being applied on top of an existing stain. Semi transparent, transparent and semi solid stains are considered penetrating finishes which means a stain will penetrate the natural wood to protect the wood better, longer. What happens in both causes mentioned above is that there is an existing coat of stain on the deck, when a new coat of stain is applied, it has nowhere to go so it sits on top of the deck and dries which causes the oils to reflect the light and cause uneven shiny spots contrasted with dull spots on a deck

How to Resolve Problem:

There are three ways to resolve such a problem 1) chemically strip a deck removing all previous seals and stains. This leaves for a clean canvas to work with. 2) Sanding down all top surfaces of the deck. 3) If there are only a few small areas of flashing a medium grade of steel wool is helpful in removing the excess stain and restoring the finish to blend in with the other parts on the deck.

Possible Pitfalls and options to consider:

• Sanding will not be effective remedy if the stain is very thick and fresh.
• The advantage of the sanding is that the deck will be smooth protecting the big and little fee that may use the deck.
• Experience has taught me that it is better to strip a deck first rather than sand it to remove the flashing (and also the stain) When you do this remove the stain from the entire board (do not strip the areas with flashing only).
• On newer decks stripping may cause furring (read about furring in another posting) where small particles of the wood pull away from the deck. This is not necessarily bad but covered over with stain may cause another imperfection in the final appearance of the project. So in many cases when stripping is performed so is light sanding to the area with no greater than 80 sand paper using a palm sander.

Do all decks that have previous treatment need to be stripped or sanded prior to a new stain to avoid flashing?

Generally No, with that being said if there is an old colored stain you may run the chance of flashing. Darker, newer stains may be more obvious cases for flashing. But lighter stains may be deceiving until a fresh coat of stain has been applied. Generally a trained eye can tell but really you never know

Where does flashing mostly commonly occur? Along the bottom of the railings where it meets the deck. This is caused by spraying the rails with overspray on the floor then spraying the floor. The combination of applying two coats quickly may result in flashing. How do you resolve this from happening? Back brushing the stain in these areas. This may also be where there is greater buildup from previous treatments. The other areas commonly seen flashing is near the edge of the house that gets frequent cover from the house. The old stain may not have been warn as much or may not have received frequent weathering. The most common location is under table, grill a mat or under furniture. Each of these areas gets little to no wear, sun or exposure to the elements so they are preserved and so are any previous treatments. To a deck owner looking at their deck after it is stained they may be alarmed by these dull or shiny spots on the deck, but once the furniture is placed back it the spot where it normally resides, they will never see them.

Will Flashing adversely affect the lifespan of my deck? No, flashing results from too much protection

Can flashing be unsafe? Generally No, however excessive flashing can be because it is like an oil slick on your deck. Read the labels on the product you are applying for amount of coverage and give adequate drying time after stain has been applied (24-48 hours). In damp/ humid climates or shaded decks may be longer.